Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
